Of late, Parisian restaurants have shunned the kind of fussy service and florid interiors that once defined French dining. Yet even the most modern and creative new establishments seem to favor the multicourse tasting menu. In other words, there’s still a soupçon of rigidity. Not at Le Servan, a neo-bistro in the 11th Arrondissement where the à la carte menu is serious but the experience is distinctly laid-back. “We really wanted to let people choose what and how they were eating,” said Tatiana Levha, its 30-year-old chef and co-owner. Ms. Levha, who was born in Manila and grew up in Paris, offers a succinct menu that she describes as “traditional French cuisine with a little Asian twist.” Each dish is tweaked daily: one day you might be served tête de veau with sorrel sauce; the next day it arrives with gribiche sauce, made with hard-boiled eggs. With its, airy, contemporary décor, floor-to-ceiling windows, casual atmosphere and friendly service, Le Servan, which opened in April, did not go unnoticed by local food critics, bloggers and the general public. But what made it instantly popular was Ms. Levha’s résumé: She spent time at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, two venerable restaurants with three Michelin stars each.
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