The new temple of healthy eating, Delphine Plisson’s giant épicerie (500 square meters) feels like a fruit and vegetable showroom and is appreciated by both Doucet and Camdeborde, no small feat. For all those in a rush, there are snacks (sandwiches, salads) and viennoiseries sold to go. For everyone else, there’s market home cooking, like grandma would make but fancier (and not cheap either). The terrace is the best place to sit, under the glass canopy (sixty covers) when the sun is high. The day we went: a simple watermelon and melon salad; very good and tender cod with aioli served over a bed of crisp steamed peas, young carrots, leeks and potatoes; and creamy, comforting rice pudding for dessert. To drink, there’s iced tea or homemade lemonade (€5), cocktails (€10-12) and wines by the glass (Entre-Deux-Mers Château Marjosse for €5, Chénas Château des Jacques for €7). À la carte €32-38. No reservations. // C.P.
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