Hunanese food is the fieriest of all the Chinese traditions: less oily than Szechuan and much more pungent. Bashan, in Soho owned by the people who run the upmarket Szechuan restaurant, Barshu,just across the road. It has recently introducedan all Hunanese menu, developed with the Chinese food expert Fuchsia Dunlop, and for those who like dishes that make their scalp swear, it’s a joy.
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