Lacquered woodwork, vintage light fixtures, white enameled tables, a high marble bar, electric blue benches…. This former apothecary has been converted into one of the classiest restaurants in East Paris, by the grace of Romain Thibault (ex-Pinxo and L’Antre Amis) and the team behind the Bar Etna (Paris, 6th arrondissement). The menu (which isn’t cheap) lives up to the décor, especially when it comes to their wine selection: croque monsieur (€7) given a youthful twist with toasted brioche bread, emmental, chives and jambon de Paris sliced fresh on the Berkel; a somewhat forced combination of sausage, a whole Marennes oyster, paper-thin white radishes and good Bordier seaweed butter (€14); oven-roasted line-caught whiting from Oléron in a salt crust with carrots, and pears in a bittersweet marinade (€21), woken up by the immense Sel d’Argent 2014 from Pfifferling (€9 a glass); and, for the colorful finale, a citrus tart made with oranges, grapefruit and kumquats from the Marché d’Aligre, perfect with a magnificent Cuvée Ox-idée from the Domaine Ombre et Soleil (€7 a glass). Some other drink options: artisanal Loirette beer (€6), Alain Millat grape juice (€6) or Scottish Overaged Malt Whiskey from Michel Couvreur (€10). Lunch menu €19, €24 and €32. À la carte at night: €39-47 or five-course tasting menu €55. // G.L.P.
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