Ho Wong demonstrates the Chinese obsession that seafood must be ultra-fresh and he cooks it in a variety of inspired and interesting wayswithout over-elaborating. We had to try the "chilli and salt seafood combination" whose explanatory note said merely "king prawn, squid, scallops, tender squid and soft, grainy sole in a featherlight batter, dusted with salt and doused with a last-minute garnish of stir-fried fresh green chilli in garlicky-soy juices. With so much good savoury food it's no wonder that the Chinese aren't big on desserts.
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