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With its checkerboard floor, high ceilings, and flowery fileteado signage, this is a beautiful corner cafe, formerly called the Trianon. Past punters include boxer Jose Maria “el Mono” Gatica and socialist politician Alfredo Palacios. Apparently, president Juan Peron used to drop by to pick up a turkey escabeche (a vinegar and paprika marinade) sandwich, the house speciality, still made to a secret recipe. Boedo – both the barrio and street – have deep tango associations: Homero Manzi’s beautiful song Sur opens with the lines, “San Juan and Boedo, and the whole sky… the corner of the blacksmith, mud and pampa”. The bar’s current name, Margot – adopted in 1993 – honours a celebrated tango by Celedonio Flores, about a girl who sells her soul for the high life. The smaller back room has air-con and there’s a terraced area on the street.