In what is still often called the Jewish quarter, a charismatic ex-New Yorker of Viennese descent serves up his twin cultures with a nod to his in-laws from Tuscany and Provence. The interior is striking, with wild scribblings of black paint all over the white ceilings. In summer its divine outdoor seating is surrounded by attractive low hedges creating an intimate but open feel. Try the saddle of venison and smoked blood sausage with celery, sour cherries, and duck grammel; or the grilled trout with crustacean minestrone, pasta, and young basil. The food is inspired and artfully served in a place that is the first bite of the Big Apple-feeling in Vienna's second district.
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